Mexico City is a must-see for artists. I just returned from eight days of exploring this buzzing metropolis of 25 million people and I can’t wait to return. Thanks to visits to the National Anthropological Museum, the Banamex Collection, Diego Rivera and Frida Kahlo’s studio, the Tamayo Museum, the MUNAE National Print Museum, and a night at the Mexican ballet, I got an ultra stimulating art fix.

MUNAE is located in the historical centre of Mexico City, in the Plaza de la Santa Veracruz. This charming square is a peaceful haven from the electric energy that charges the surrounding streets. The museum is housed in what used to be the atrium of the Santa Veracruz church, built in the late nineteenth century. In 1986 the museum opened its doors to the public.
Walking into a museum devoted solely to print media is a transcendental experience for a printmaker. Printmaking tends to exist quietly backstage in the theatre of visual arts. To have it glorified and honored in a museum is a rare treat. During my two-hour visit I kept marveling at the team of security guards vigilantly protecting the precious prints, not paintings or sculptures, but prints, prints, prints!
There were two temporary exhibits: The 2009 First Biennial of Contemporary Mexican Printmaking, and Atelier Clot, Bramsen & Georges.
The Biennial was the perfect show to feel the current pulse of Mexican printmaking. I was expecting to see the same blast of color that flames across the city and was surprised to discover a rich universe of black and white lines and textures. According to Cesar Gordillo, director of the print museum in Puebla, printmaking is on the rise in Mexico. This exhibit is proof that Mexican artists are pushing technical limits and are churning out strong imagery.

Serpiente
Ernesto Alva Franco
The first prize went to Ernesto Alva Franco for his triptych Serpiente. His image is engraved in trovicel, plastic sheet. Although reminiscent of linocut or woodcut, a closer look reveals linear nuances with a slightly synthetic, almost mechanical quality.
Luis Ricaurte Vilota has two pieces, entitled Lookumi, that have been made with lasergrafia, a technique he developed himself, which consists of engraving digital images on wood plates. For these works he layered see-through prints in plexiglass boxes. These prints embody timelessness, where traditional and high tech methods merge to create something powerful and altogether new.

Daily Salary Strategy
Jorge Iván López Medina
The only other piece that incorporates digital technology is Daily Salary Strategy by Jorge Iván López Medina. This bold image is a combination of etching and digital printing.
At the other end of the technical spectrum, it was interesting to see Jesús Antonio Martínez Escobar’s in situ print of a tree stump. The paper bears subtle folds, testimonies to the hand printed process.
Atelier Clot, Bramsen & Georges was founded in Paris 113 years ago. It specializes in lithography. By the end of the last century, Auguste Clot, its founder, was considered the best printer in Paris. He was known for his experimental nature, particularly in the field of color printing. This drew many important artists to his studio, including Cezanne, Degas, Renoir, Munch, and Rodin.
I discovered an interesting trend in the exhibition. Many artists showed carpetas, portfolios of works, consisting of a series of prints ranging from four to forty-five prints. Some of the smaller series were shown unframed in showcases.

El pollo
Francisco Toledo
Francisco Toledo’s El pollo is a celebration of the fluid imagery that is the hallmark of lithography. There is something tragic, yet almost humoristic about it. I love the fork in the drawer. Is it for the pollo to use or is it for someone to use on the pollo?

Dama en technicolor I
Antonio Saura
Dama en Technicolor I by Antonio Saura jumps off the wall with raw energy that begs to be accompanied by an Afro-Brazilian soundtrack. The piece feels so spontaneous, as if the artist painted it directly onto paper. To think that it was executed on a lithographic stone is mind-boggling.
I ended my visit with a stop at the educational studio. The room, designed for school-aged children, has different stations where the students can experiment with stamping, linocut, and frottage. Alejandro Monroy, head of educational services, insisted that I print one of their demo linoleum plates. They use a nifty wood tortilla press to print with. These presses are usually used to make corn tortillas. A ball of masa is placed in the centre of the press, pressure is applied and the dough is flattened into a round, flat tortilla. The studio’s tortilla press was altered; it has a door hinge, instead of the original smaller hinge, thereby creating more room to insert a linoleum plate. The plate is covered with paper, which in turn is covered with a thin rubber mat. I can say without hesitation that the quality of the printed image is impeccable! Mr. Monroy explained that the museum works with limited resources and pointed out that in the studio the children print onto recycled photocopy paper.

“Limited resources,” is a refrain I heard over and over in artistic circles. However, it is inspiring to see what is being done with those limited cultural funds. In Mexico art and culture are worshipped on a pedestal. Across the capital city banners announce cultural events, each more enticing than the other. The artistic glory of pre-Hispanic Mexico lingers in the air and blends with today’s exciting art scene to create a truly effervescent cultural atmosphere.
Talleen Hacikyan
Photos of artwork from exhibition catalogues.
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